
Stephanie Alexander tells me that in ancient times quinces were revered as sacred symbols of love, happiness and fertility. There is something kind of miraculous about quinces, in the way that their perfume subtly fragrances the kitchen, and the way their hard, pale rawness transforms into crimson softness after a few hours of judicious cooking.
They've long been a favourite of mine, ever since I discovered them back in Sydney. Then, it was difficult to find a reliable source, but here in Switzerland they are reasonably easy to find.
Bruno's parents recently gave me 10!!! kilos of quinces, all from a local farm. Luckily they have a long shelf-life, because I've been so busy that I haven't had time to make jam and jelly from them - they are still sitting out in our open freezer (the balcony, now it's so cold). I did poach a huge batch, from which I made a fab quince and almond cake (in the manner of Anneka Manning's apple and almond cake), much better than the quince and nut cake (from Stephanie Alexander) I made for Max's birthday, which was a dry and pretty dismal affair.
I have to admit I don't do much more with quinces other than poach them (and then use them in various cakes and tarts) and make jam or jelly from them. They do amount to a fair bit of work, just for those simple recipes. I haven't tried my hand at quince paste, nor am I tempted, for some reason (I think it was Stephanie Alexander's comment about how she badly sprained her arm while making a batch that put me off). I'm happy as a clam with my poached quinces, so I haven't made much of an effort to seek out new quince recipes (lazy, I am). I might try to put some in my christmas cake this year, though (if I ever get around to making it).
Here are my two favourite quince recipes. If quinces are in season in your part of the woods, take advantage now, because the season is so sadly short:
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